The Cairngorms: August 21, 2011

I don’t think my meager writing skills are enough to adequately describe the amazing experience we had today at Cairngorm National Park in the highlands of Scotland. I still want to attempt to share it though because I think it’s something that should be added to every person’s “bucket list,” that is, things to do/see before you die (or kick the bucket).

We drove this morning from Fort Augustus to Aviemore, the northern most town and ski village of Cairngorm National Park. From there we continued on another ten or fifteen minutes until we reached the area surrounding Loch Murlick. A loch is a lake and in Scotland especially, they are incredibly beautiful. Many are situated in glens (valleys) between hills and mountains surrounded by towering pine trees. Not unlike the Pacific Northwest of the United States. Only much less populated. 

We found our destination next to the visitor’s centre. The Cairngorm Reindeer Centre. 

A reindeer centre for me tends to bring to mind some of the kitschy places around the Christmas season. “Pay two dollars and see a live reindeer” kind of thing. Like a curiosity act, you see a reindeer dressed to the nines like he just took a flight with Santa Claus, decorated in brightly polished brass and red and green harnesses. You walk away feeling a bit sad for the poor animal. 

Let me assure you I am not writing about the amazing live reindeer we saw... Well, okay, I AM actually writing about the amazing live reindeer we saw but not quite the way you may think. Just stay with me.

If you are also thinking we were just doing this to entertain our kids while on holiday, you’re right. We’ve found that planning in visits to see little furry creatures along with the historical sites goes a long way in keeping our children happy. Especially when they spend hours each day in the minivan listening to their mother exclaim over the historical significance of a certain plot of land (“Kids, this is the exact spot where Bonny Prince Charlie raised his standard in 1745! Isn’t that amazing?!”) or the gorgeousness of the landscape, (“Isn’t this the most beautiful tree?”). They tend to get a bit less glassy-eyed when they know they will get to pet a warm, fuzzy mammal at some point on the trip. 

Once we reached the centre, a guide had us drive up the mountain until we came to a car park next to a trailhead. We hopped out and put on our Wellies before heading up the trail. We were part of a group of around twenty other people. We followed a narrow trail up one incline and then down another until we came to a gorge with a waterfall rushing down to a river. We followed the path across a bridge taking in scenery that looked almost too beautiful to be real. 

We went up another incline and continued for another ten minutes or so until we reached a tall wooden gate. It was here our guide gave us our “rules.” The strongest rule being not to touch the reindeer’s antlers as they were extremely sensitive. 

He opened the gate and we all filed through into a large, sloping field dotted with purple heather, tall grass, rocks, boggy mud, and a herd of huge reindeer that seemed to be waiting just for us to arrive. The kids started giggling. Then the adults. We didn’t know whether to be nervous or excited that there was nothing between these large animals and ourselves other than a few feet of air. No stalls, restraints or fences. We were walking in the middle of the Cairngorm mountains with a herd of reindeer. It was incredible.

A wooden plank trail guided us through the field up to a higher ridge. Some reindeer followed along beside us, while cheekier ones just nudged us aside and walked on the narrow trail in front of or behind us. It’s a bit disconcerting to find yourself bopped from behind to allow an enormous, albeit graceful animal to walk on past. 

Once we had made it to a higher position, our guide distributed a grainy mixture for us to feed to the herd. It seemed to be mainly oats but with a few other seeds and grains included. This was the key moment the reindeer must have been waiting for because suddenly we were surrounded. There was no polite nudging but just self-confident heads and muzzles seeking out our hands and pockets, ready to nibble whatever we had ready to give them.  With the onslaught of so many friendly (and can I say it again? enormous) reindeer at once, it was at first a bit overwhelming. I had to duck several times to avoid being clocked by the tall, branching antlers that can sometimes grow to be nearly as big as the reindeer. After the initial excitement and a few handfuls of oats, they seemed to settle down. The reindeer were quite willing then to allow us to pet them as much as we wanted. 

There were males and females, young and old. Their antlers were covered in a velvety fur. Their thin legs made little clicking noises as they walked amongst us, apparently an evolutionary addition which allows them to graze while still keeping track of the rest of the herd. The noise is also supposed to disorientate any predators that might strike the herd. My husband then said his joints have begun popping and clicking now that he’s getting older so it must also be a new evolutionary trait to help him disorientate predators. (Hmmm...)

 Our group spread out on the mountain. When we (and the reindeer) had had our fill of the feeding, we just stood and surveyed the surroundings. The guide told us that the reindeer have over a thousand acres to roam freely. This encompasses much of what we could and couldn’t see, including a loch and a mountain. The day was lovely and we were given as much time as we wanted to spend with the herd on the hillside. There was a gentle breeze of cool air that made us glad we’d worn our fleece jackets. We even had a few minutes of rain that quickly passed. Even in August, Scotland can still be quite chilly so I would guess it’s an ideal habitat for a reindeer. 

After nearly two hours, we left the herd and walked back along the trail toward the main gate. Several reindeer chose to follow us and politely see us out. Even after being among them, it was still disconcerting to look over my shoulder and see one right behind me looking at me as if to say, “hurry up!” 

It was a slower group that returned back to the trailhead. I think we were all a bit introspective and awed with the experience. My children found feeding the reindeer to be thrilling but were easily as excited when a flock of ducks waddled their way up the hill hoping for leftovers of the reindeer food. Like I said, it’s all about the animals... But we were surprised and elated that it turned out to be such an adventure for us too. 

The English Tradition of Tea

One of my favourite things about living in England is having a really great cup of tea. It’s calming, warm and lovely when shared with a friend at the kitchen table after the kids have all gone off to school.


Before moving to the UK, I held some fairly old-fashioned beliefs on what I thought having tea would be like here. First, I believed tea would be a daily event that involved pretty dresses and lace doilies. I thought the tea, heated from water boiled in a copper kettle on an ancient stove, would be served in a fragile, floral teapot with equally dainty teacups and saucers. Petite, crustless sandwiches made of cucumber, egg salad or cheese would be offered along with biscuits and cookies. To sum it up, I thought it would be just the way I imagined it from reading about life during Victorian times. (I'm hopeless, I know).


As much as I like to picture England as it was nearly two hundred years ago, life has evolved here right along with the rest of the world. While you can find tea rooms and hotels that still offer an afternoon high tea, the British tradition of having tea is quite a bit less formal. Even so, it’s still a wonderful part of life here and there are those who are extremely staunch on the requirements of when and how to make a good cup.


“How do you like to make a cup of tea?"


A simple question (or so I thought) I asked my neighbors recently during an evening garden party in our village. I received no less than ten different answers, including a detailed chart on what kind of tea you can drink at specific times of day, and how it must be made. According to one English friend, the only united answers among the British regarding tea are:


Boiling water is essential.
Never hot or warm water.
Never use hot milk.
Never use instant tea.
The rest of Europe (and America, as I understand it) do not know how to make tea.


First, it's fine to use a mug. I've been told that real china is preferred as it makes the tea taste better and warms more efficiently without taking too much heat from the tea.

If using a teapot, there is a crucial first step. The pot must be warmed first with a small amount of hot water. Then the boiling water and tea may be added. A rule of thumb is one scoop of tea leaves (or a tea bag) per person and end with one for the pot. Cute tea cozies, which look like a knitted hat, slide over the pot to keep it warm in between refills.


Water is obviously an essential ingredient. Many here will use tap water but they say it can detract from the taste of the tea. It is better to use filtered water which gives the tea a smoother taste and color. Brits, at least the ones I know, do not use the old method of a kettle on the stove. The modern method is heating water with the use of an electric kettle. I had never seen one of these before but I know now that they are sold in the States. I saw one recently at Williams-Sonoma. Anyway, these are brilliantly efficient and quick.

However you heat your water, the key to making a good cup of English tea is that you must use boiling water. Apparently, the temperature greatly affects the flavour of the tea.
You also mustn’t let the tea bag/leaves steep for long. Personally, I think 1-2 minutes is perfect. Any longer and you end up with an extremely strong, thick tea.


The Great Milk Debate


Do you add milk first before you pour in the boiling water or after you remove the tea bag? Do you use whole milk or semi-skimmed? Do you add a little or more than a little?


One neighbor says, “If I make tea in a mug then the milk goes in after the water and definitely after the tea bag has come out BUT if I make tea in a pot, then the milk has to go in the cup before the tea. Also, if I make tea in a pot, it has to be drunk out of a cup, not a mug.”


Several of our English friends agreed that if you add the milk first before the water it allows the milk to slowly warm instead of being scalded when poured in last. I’ve tried it both ways but can’t really tell a difference. I think it’s safe to say just add the milk if you want it, whenever you feel so inclined.


Finally, you can add sugar, although it’s completely optional.


One of our neighbors says, “Americans are brilliant at brewing coffee but rubbish at making tea.” He says that we usually make the mistake of adding too much milk, when only a splash is needed. (Another example of the milk debate).


Types of tea


When deciding on tea, the options are endless. Most of the time, I am offered a choice of Earl Grey or regular tea. Regular doesn’t have the distinct strong flavor of Earl Grey. I tend to go with a regular brand called PG Tips. Other regular brands include Yorkshire and Tetley. Twinings is a reputable brand for the flavored teas. Again, this is just a tiny tip of the tea iceberg with literally hundreds of options.

My favorite treat...A cream tea.


A cream tea is a pot of tea served with scones, jam, butter and clotted cream. You can order one at coffee houses and cafes. There are two kinds of traditional cream teas...The Devonshire cream tea and the Cornish cream teat.


A Devonshire cream tea, originating from the county of Devon in southwest England, is served with a scone that is topped with clotted cream followed by strawberry jam. A Cornish cream tea is just the opposite using butter, followed by jam, then topped with clotted cream. Either way, if the scones are fresh and still warm, the combination of flavors are heavenly. Perfect afternoon treat especially when shared with some friends.


Warning: For serious tea drinkers only...


This is the schedule I was given if I want to be a proper tea imbiber. (I’m still laughing over this but apparently my friend was quite serious).


Time: First thing in the morning BEFORE breakfast

Type of tea: English Breakfast or Assam

Reason: Strong; wakes you up; Drink WITH milk.


Time: Breakfast
Type: English Breakfast or Earl Grey
Reason: Still strong; Drink WITH milk


Time: Mid-morning
Type: Earl Grey or Assam
Reason: Refreshing. Drink WITH milk


Time: Afternoon
Type: Lapsang Souchong or Darjeeling
Reason: Serve with a slice of lemon but NO milk.


Time: Evening AFTER dinner
Type: Peppermint tea
Reason: Relaxing and aids digestion. NO milk.


It’s important to know that tea is always offered whenever you enter someone’s home. I think it might be considered impolite if you didn’t offer tea. This includes not just your neighbors and friends, but anyone really who comes to your home including your movers, cleaners, carpenters, plumbers and handy-men. We recently had a contractor over to repair a door. Having learned about this social nicety, I was quick to offer him tea when he arrived (lest I unknowingly offend!). He did his work and then we sat and chatted over tea afterwards. It was the same with our movers. In America, our movers came armed with their two litre bottles of soda or 7-11 Big Gulps. In England, our movers just kept refilling their tea mugs.


I’ve found that taking time for tea is a really nice way to connect with people during the day. It’s more personal and forces me to slow down and be in the moment. It’s also a great way to have some quiet time during a hectic day.


My favorite comment when asking my English neighbors about tea was from my lovely friend Kate who described the tradition succinctly and humorously. “Offering tea is the British way of coping with any crisis. ‘Oh no, the world is about to end! ...Shall we have a cup of tea then?’”