I don’t think my meager writing skills are enough to adequately describe the amazing experience we had today at Cairngorm National Park in the highlands of Scotland. I still want to attempt to share it though because I think it’s something that should be added to every person’s “bucket list,” that is, things to do/see before you die (or kick the bucket).
We drove this morning from Fort Augustus to Aviemore, the northern most town and ski village of Cairngorm National Park. From there we continued on another ten or fifteen minutes until we reached the area surrounding Loch Murlick. A loch is a lake and in Scotland especially, they are incredibly beautiful. Many are situated in glens (valleys) between hills and mountains surrounded by towering pine trees. Not unlike the Pacific Northwest of the United States. Only much less populated.
We found our destination next to the visitor’s centre. The Cairngorm Reindeer Centre.
A reindeer centre for me tends to bring to mind some of the kitschy places around the Christmas season. “Pay two dollars and see a live reindeer” kind of thing. Like a curiosity act, you see a reindeer dressed to the nines like he just took a flight with Santa Claus, decorated in brightly polished brass and red and green harnesses. You walk away feeling a bit sad for the poor animal.
Let me assure you I am not writing about the amazing live reindeer we saw... Well, okay, I AM actually writing about the amazing live reindeer we saw but not quite the way you may think. Just stay with me.
If you are also thinking we were just doing this to entertain our kids while on holiday, you’re right. We’ve found that planning in visits to see little furry creatures along with the historical sites goes a long way in keeping our children happy. Especially when they spend hours each day in the minivan listening to their mother exclaim over the historical significance of a certain plot of land (“Kids, this is the exact spot where Bonny Prince Charlie raised his standard in 1745! Isn’t that amazing?!”) or the gorgeousness of the landscape, (“Isn’t this the most beautiful tree?”). They tend to get a bit less glassy-eyed when they know they will get to pet a warm, fuzzy mammal at some point on the trip.
Once we reached the centre, a guide had us drive up the mountain until we came to a car park next to a trailhead. We hopped out and put on our Wellies before heading up the trail. We were part of a group of around twenty other people. We followed a narrow trail up one incline and then down another until we came to a gorge with a waterfall rushing down to a river. We followed the path across a bridge taking in scenery that looked almost too beautiful to be real.
We went up another incline and continued for another ten minutes or so until we reached a tall wooden gate. It was here our guide gave us our “rules.” The strongest rule being not to touch the reindeer’s antlers as they were extremely sensitive.
He opened the gate and we all filed through into a large, sloping field dotted with purple heather, tall grass, rocks, boggy mud, and a herd of huge reindeer that seemed to be waiting just for us to arrive. The kids started giggling. Then the adults. We didn’t know whether to be nervous or excited that there was nothing between these large animals and ourselves other than a few feet of air. No stalls, restraints or fences. We were walking in the middle of the Cairngorm mountains with a herd of reindeer. It was incredible.
A wooden plank trail guided us through the field up to a higher ridge. Some reindeer followed along beside us, while cheekier ones just nudged us aside and walked on the narrow trail in front of or behind us. It’s a bit disconcerting to find yourself bopped from behind to allow an enormous, albeit graceful animal to walk on past.
Once we had made it to a higher position, our guide distributed a grainy mixture for us to feed to the herd. It seemed to be mainly oats but with a few other seeds and grains included. This was the key moment the reindeer must have been waiting for because suddenly we were surrounded. There was no polite nudging but just self-confident heads and muzzles seeking out our hands and pockets, ready to nibble whatever we had ready to give them. With the onslaught of so many friendly (and can I say it again? enormous) reindeer at once, it was at first a bit overwhelming. I had to duck several times to avoid being clocked by the tall, branching antlers that can sometimes grow to be nearly as big as the reindeer. After the initial excitement and a few handfuls of oats, they seemed to settle down. The reindeer were quite willing then to allow us to pet them as much as we wanted.
There were males and females, young and old. Their antlers were covered in a velvety fur. Their thin legs made little clicking noises as they walked amongst us, apparently an evolutionary addition which allows them to graze while still keeping track of the rest of the herd. The noise is also supposed to disorientate any predators that might strike the herd. My husband then said his joints have begun popping and clicking now that he’s getting older so it must also be a new evolutionary trait to help him disorientate predators. (Hmmm...)
After nearly two hours, we left the herd and walked back along the trail toward the main gate. Several reindeer chose to follow us and politely see us out. Even after being among them, it was still disconcerting to look over my shoulder and see one right behind me looking at me as if to say, “hurry up!”
It was a slower group that returned back to the trailhead. I think we were all a bit introspective and awed with the experience. My children found feeding the reindeer to be thrilling but were easily as excited when a flock of ducks waddled their way up the hill hoping for leftovers of the reindeer food. Like I said, it’s all about the animals... But we were surprised and elated that it turned out to be such an adventure for us too.
